Tuesday 2 November 2021

Bom Dia, Boa Tarde, Boa Noite!

Ola! 


Half term just gone and after two years of dropping the travel baton it has once again been picked up and stashed in the knapsack and we’ve headed for foreign shores. 

Porto to be precise, for five days of sun and a travel experience that was the equivalent of taking off tight shoes. 


We’d been booked to visit the Easter before last but then the poxy Pando struck. We vowed to return and gambled on booking some very cheap flights at the start of this year when we were are all ligging around in lockdown. 

We tentatively touched base with the friendly guy we had been due to stay with in 2020, but his three holiday apartments had been repossessed in autumn last year. A lovely fella, he had little left but hoped to get going again at some point.


New accommodation was booked and after several Covid scares at school during the two weeks preceding our departure, we filled in our Portuguese Passenger locator forms, printed off our vaccine certificates and headed for Gatwick. 

Currently only the north terminal building is in use with the South terminal mothballed. With reduced operating capacity we were through bag drop and security in a jiffy. The departure lounge had a few retail units closed and our usual restaurant of first choice for breakfast or coffee had also put the shutters up. 

Masks on all the way during the flight and then we landed in another country for the first time in two years. 


Onto the excellent Metro for a thirty minute ride to Trindade station and our apartment in the Baixa district of Porto. 

Up off and out the next morning we headed for the river. Rua do Alamada, the road on which we were billeted, seemed to be the DIY and Hardware quarter of the city. There were a dozen or more old fashioned hardware stores with a counter, behind which stood the store owner in a brown jacket with a bank of small fitted wooden drawers covering the wall and extending to the ceiling where many implements hung ready for retrieval and sale. 


Carrying on down to the river, and Porto is very hilly, we moved into the Ribiera district which features old cobbled winding streets with many cafes and restaurants. The river front in Ribiera until a few decades ago was quite run down in a Liverpool in the seventies kind of way, but has since been sympathetically buffed up and is now a great place to spend a few hours with a glass of excellent local wine or a big glass of Superbock gazing at what must be, with exception of my own efforts, one of the best bridges in the world. 


You’ll have seen it somewhere at some point and it is a bridge like no other. Ponte Dom Luis1, built by the business partner of Gustav Eifel, it carries the metro, pedestrians and motor vehicles on two levels and is reassuringly over engineered in the grand manner of the day with big bits of metal used in its construction and a million or more rivets. Eifel had a go at a bridge upstream, but it pales in comparison to his compadre’s and probably marked the point at which he made the successful switch to towers. 


Whenever we travel, we always research and book our first dinner of the holiday. If we have had a long flight and hunger is setting in vagueness can take hold, a decision cannot be made as to where to eat and an uncomfortable silence can descend. 

As a result we always pre book our first night dinner via the miracle of the internet. 

For our initial trip we had booked a table at Muu, a highly rated Porto restaurant where the menu is mostly cow based. Trepidatiously we touched base with them for our rearranged trip, concerned that they may have gone the same way as our initial accommodation booking. 

Fortunately they hadn’t, 

They’d muddled through on reduced staff and takeaway provision and would be delighted to have us over for the evening. 

It’s a small place with around a dozen tables and dimly lit, which we like towards the end of the day, unless we have to read anything which is when the clever phone and it’s inbuilt torch comes in. 


It is one of the best dining experiences we have ever had. The food, is sensational and the people who run the place couldn’t have been more pleased to see us. We visited again on our last night and it got quite emotional as they explained how pleased they were that people were coming from away to touch base with Porto again. 

Off out the next day to Livrario Lello. 


According to some it’s the third most spectacular bookshop in the world. 

Well I’d like to see what shop gets the silver and gold. 


We queued for thirty minutes to gain entry, and thanks very much for that JK Rowling. JK taught English in Porto in the early 90s. A difficult period in her personal life, her time in Porto proved to be the genesis of Harry Potter and there are several public spaces in the city that she frequented that provided inspiration for her writings. 


This book shop (that is still run as a bookshop) is dominated by the spectacular “Hogwarts” style central stair case and the stained glass windows and roof. It has Gringots style wooden carts running on rails set in the floor on the lower level which were used for moving books about the place.


Over the Dom Luis bridge on the Metro the next day to climb the steps to the Church of our lady of some such thing or other, whose forecourt affords some superb views of the city.


We hung around for an hour before descending to the cable car and a ride down to the Port houses that line the bank of the river. 


All the big names in the liquor are there along with some old boats that used to transport barrels full of port down the Douro.
 

All of the port is tankered along the road today but the Douro remains brim full of boats with many day trips and also the River Cruise Ships that berth just downstream from the Port houses.
 

Port was taken at one of the port houses, the white stuff which was very nice, before we headed back over the lower level of the bridge on foot to a riverside bar for a glass of vino. 

And this is where I had a bit of a moment. 

Sitting by the river, in bright sunshine with a glass of wine watching people pass by and taking in the overall setting is enough for me. Why some loons think this experience can be enhanced by the introduction of live music is beyond my ken. 


These guys turned up and banged out Sweet Child of Mine by Guns and Roses and the staple of most European city buskers, a poorly sung version of Jeff Buckley’s Hallelujah. 

We don’t get any choice in whether they play or not, we must just sit there mid drink gripping the arms of the chair increasingly tightly. All my hard stares, shaking of my head and audible sighs seemed to only make them try harder. In the unlikely event that I require music to enhance this particular experience, I will get out my clever phone, don my clever headphones and listen to a song of my choice, sung by a competent musician without bothering anyone else. 

They are an international menace and must be stopped. 


Anyway, for the remainder of our stay we just mooched about Porto. There are many view points to visited, shops to be shopped and little lanes to get lost in for a few hours. 

And then all too soon the shopkeeper appeared and it was time for us to go home.


Onto the Metro and back up the line to the Aeroporto where for a while it all went wrong. 

Earlier in the week we had filled in our passenger locator forms on the YouGov website, booked our day two Covid tests and received confirmation emails of both. At bag drop we were asked for our papers and we handed over what we had and prepared to retrieve the relevant documents from the You Gov website via the medium of clever phone. 

Only we couldn’t. 

The You Gov website refused to accept our login details, had no record of us ever having used the website (despite us having submitted many forms on the thing over the years, from Tax returns, through licensing to paying fines) It had recognised us forty eight hours before, but now it didn’t want to know us. Half a dozen other parties were in the same boat and then the website crashed. For forty five minutes we desperately tried to retrieve our forms, the confirmation emails with reference number would not suffice. 


And then an angel in orange appeared who went by the name of Lara Amaral and worked for Easyjet. 

Sensing our distress, she disappeared for five minutes to make a call, before taking our phones and somehow conjuring up a couple of UK Passenger Locator forms for us to fill in again. Which we did, we were then whisked through security and passport control to our plane, where we were the last to board. 

Apparently they had made last call announcements over the tannoy for Mr Dickeni, but we hadn’t been able to hear them due to a poor PA system and our poor hearing. We did however hear the person running along the passport queue shouting for Mr Dickeni. 

A terrific trip, and as I said previously, something akin to taking off tight shoes. 

An Addendum: Day two testing for travel into Old Albion. These must be paid for. Both Madam and myself were required to take a lateral flow test on the Sunday for her return to school, they are provided at no charge. Foreign travel requires a lateral flow test or PCR test to be taken within two days of entry to England, the test must be paid for by and purchased from a government approved provider our school lateral flow test would not suffice. 


On Sunday (our day two and the day before Madam returned to school) Madam and myself sat at the kitchen and went through the ritual of taking a lateral flow test and reporting the results to the school and the NHS website. Two minutes later Madam and myself sat at the same table took another lateral flow test, exactly the same as the one we had taken for school purposes, but one with which we had been required to hand over money, and reported the results.

Which is nuts. 


Is anyone up to their eyes in making vast profits during a time of national crisis again (see previous guff on PPE), while the remainder of the populous have been urged to act in a particular way for the common good.

Tut










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